Road Guardians

OK, I know I haven’t been able to post another part in a while so here I am with part 3. In this part we will cover the rear of the bike, to include rear brakes, rear wheel, swing arm, final drive system, suspension, and anything else we can think of. First after coming from the left side of the bike already we will start with the left of the rear end. Now I know some bikes have their brakes on the left and some others have their drive on the left, whether it be belt, chain, or drive shaft. Never the less I will cover them all.

So to start we will check the swing arm. For you rigid folks you don’t have to worry about it but we need to check all the hardware that holds the swing arm to the bike’s frame. Rigid guys (or gals), if you have bolt on rigid which are pretty popular. Now make sure its nice and tight to factory specs and if you have a lock ring or anything to lock it in make sure it is there. Next, let’s check the shocks. Making sure all the hardware is securely fastened. If you have air shocks make sure you are not leaking any air or oil. Also check the condition of your springs, if you have any. and check to make sure all adjustments to make sure it is adjusted to the riders weight, passenger, and or luggage (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.) This can affect how your bike handles just as bad as having tires with low air.

Next let’s check out our final drive systems. We have many to choose from like chains, belts, drive shafts, or even the rare reverse rollers (it uses a wheel driven from the transmission rolling backwards pressed up against the rear tire to drive the wheel to give a very clean rear wheel). First we will start with belts. They are relatively simple and can be adjusted much like a chain but not lubed the same way. you want your belt to stay as dry as possible. Where as a chain you want lubed. Not too much but just enough. To adjust them refer to your manual and make sure it is to the proper adjustment at the correct circumstances. Drive shafts are a different monster all together. They can transfer a lot of power without breaking or showing weak signs like cracking but they require very strict maintenance schedule to remain this way.

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Hello everyone. I will be moving to Germany here in the next week or so. In case I don’t get to your questions as fast as normally do. As we all know moving can take a lot of energy. As soon as I get there I will get back on and let everybody know. Thank you so much for understanding.

Chris

Hello everyone. Sorry I haven’t posted lately. There has been a lot going on. But I will be sure to post the next part of my safety inspection soon. Then shortly after I will post a shortened version as a preride check for all you daily riders. So keep the questions coming. I love answering them. After all, the more I teach the more I learn as well. Thanks a lot to everyone and have a great day!

Chris the Mechanic

Okay, today we are going to continue our safety inspection on our bikes. Last time we had checked out the front wheel, tires, forks, bars, and everything on them. Today we move to the middle left portion of our bike, including front end of the frame, left side of the engine/transmission, and left side foot controls. We will start by inspecting the neck of the frame where the steering neck is. Check this area for grease coming out of the bearing area. If you have grease coming out it is totally normal so that way when good new grease is put in the old can come out. just check for anything coming out and clean it off really good. Next move your bars left to right a few times and see how it feels, it should be smooth but not too loose also check any any forward movement like if you push the bike and hit the front brakes your steering neck should stay, not making any noises.

Next we move to our motor mounts. Many times people have lost bolts that hold there motor in just because no one checked them because as we know motorcycles vibrate and when bolts vibrate the loosen. So make sure you can not loosen them with your finger. Now we will check anything that is attached to the left side of our motor; carburetor(s), exhaust, hoses, everything. Once again making sure every bolt or screw cannot be turned by hand.

Now let’s check out our side and center stands (if you have one). Make sure the spring has enough tension to hold the side stand or center stand fully up without hanging. Also make sure the what ever your bike has to cushion the stand once it comes up (most bikes have a rubber bumper).

Next let’s move on to our foot controls on this side. on all bikes 1974 and later the gear shifter is on the left side. Some European, Japanese, and Harley “Ironhead” Sportster 1973 and earlier the gear shifter is on the right and the brake is on the left. Also 1936 to 1979 all Harley-Davidson motorcycles were hand shift with a foot clutch. After 1952 Harley introduced the foot shift with hand clutch but after 1979, with the introduction of the 80″ “shovelhead” and the five speed transmission, all were foot shift hand clutch. So please make sure which you have adjust accordingly and let’s move on. You want to make sure the shift lever has full range of motion without having any interference. Also make sure your shifter is able to make a full shift into the gear not just a partial, which would show your shifter mechanism need adjustment. Then make sure your pegs or floor boards and securely attached in the way they are supposed to.

Now we will check out our fuel tank. Make sure there are no leaks, and that the fuel cap fits correctly, and is securely fastened. Next let’s check out the gauges. Making sure they work, that all lights come on, and that they work in their full range of motion accurately. Check your wire connections and your speedo cable (if you have one). Once you are sure that everything is the way it should let’s move on. Make sure your seat is securely fastened and that it doesn’t slide around or cause someone to fall off.

Well that about sums up our next step in the safety inspection for our bikes. Next time we will begin on the rear of the bike. Including wheels, tires, and suspension so until next time.

Keep the rubber side down.

Chris the Mechanic

Question from “Spitfire” of the Diamond Posse

“I am told by my dealership that I should change my rear tire every 10,000 miles but I hear from others that there are other indicators like a line in the tire that wears off when the tire needs to be changed. What should I be looking for?”

Well you are right Spitfire, there are tread wear indicators on your bike’s tire. You can also use a tread depth gauge or just a penny. To use the “Penny Method” put the penny into your tread with Lincoln’s head facing down, if the tire is not covering any of his head you need new tires. Also there should be an arrow on the sidewall of the tire. There where it points should be a line, when the tread is even with that line you should change your tires. You can also look up the tire company’s standards for their own tire and they will give you the measurement they recommend. I hope this answers your question if you need anything else feel free to ask. Thanks

Hello again, I am here today to tell you some great safety checks for all you daily riders and those of you that just ride the weekends. First thing you should always do is a complete 360 degree check of your bike, a good way to do this is start from one spot like you left handle bar grip and go around your bike step by step and end up back at the place you started.

So let’s get started. First check your clutch make sure it has a good even pull, and that the lever goes all the way to your grip without any resistance, you folks with a hydraulic clutch you are luck in this one because your clutch automatically adjusts itself. Then make sure your lever and housing are attached correctly and securely.

So now lets move on. Next check to make sure all the buttons on your grips work. For you Import guys most of your controls electrically are on this side where as the Harley goers just check both sides at this time. Make sure your headlight switch works that it switches between both settings and in the right spot, such as when the switch is on low beam your light is on low beam and not the other way around. Then check to make sure your horn is good, loud, and that the button works because no matter what people say loud pipes are not always heard and having a horn is the law. Now let’s make sure our turn signals work both left and right. For Harley riders make sure your hazard lights work, most import bikes don’t have them.

Then after all the buttons and your clutch have been checked let’s move down the bike at the base of the bars to make sure they are safely attached the way it is supposed to and as tight as it should be, but this doesn’t mean tighten it as hard as you can, this means how tight the manual say it has to be and if you are not very mechanically inclined have a friend with a torque wrench check this out for you.

Next let’s work our way down our forks checking every bolt holding them to the trees. Then moving down to the front axle check that it is secure attached if you can move any screw or bolt with your fingers it is way to loose. Then visually inspeck your brakes and pads there should be plenty of pad left there should be absolutely no brake fluid, brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4 will take paint off in less than a second, DOT 5 is safe because it is silicone base.

next check our tires for good tread depth, check for dried out tires from sitting to long, then make sure that if your bike was sitting too long you don’t have any flat spots, and then finally check your tire pressure it should be no less than 32lbs of pressure depending on the bikes and your weight combined the pressure should be bumped up. Your owners manual will have the specs you need. If you don’t have one first start off with around 36lbs as a base line for a mid sized bike like a Sportster, or anything less than 1200CC’s. if you have a full size bike like something similar to a Dyna, Softail, or touring bike. I would set the lbs to around 38-40lbs of pressure. If you are carrying a load with hard bags, on the inside there should be a sticker with the max weight for that item, DO NOT go over that weight the engineers who designed that product for your bike designed it specifically to work with your bikes max load and your tires max load. Once you have checked you tires and all is good we are ready to move on to the middle left side of our bike. But I will save that for my next Blog. So please keep any eye out for the next step of our safety inspection.

And always remember keep the rubber side down.

Chris the Mechanic

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Hello fellow Bikers. If you have any questions, problems, or “stumpers” about your motorcycles please feel free to ask. I am a certified Harley technician, Also I can pretty much work on anything with a motor. So if you have any questions about anything let me know.

If you are looking for a second opinion regarding what your local dealer has recommended, or want to be sure you got what you paid for, ask me! Also, if you would like to start doing some maintenance yourself – like changing your oil in your engine or transmission/primary – I can help with things like this as well.
Thanks again,

Chris, The Mechanic